Surfing. Possibly one of the most common words in my vocabulary. Since the age of 12 I have been hooked. Growing up in Cornwall, I have been surrounded by the ocean and its power and ambiguity.
Growing up, I never sat still. I loved all sports, especially football and spent hours kicking balls around the park with friends. It wasn’t until the age of 12 that I found surfing.
It was a boiling hot day in the Summer of 2002, I was on the beach with my family. My friend’s Dad came out of the surf, the sea and waves looked amazing. I thought for the first time in my life that I wanted to give surfing a go. I asked for a lesson. In we went and I stood up on my very first wave! Then, fell off within two seconds. Instantly, my competitive streak came out. I wanted to get better; I wanted to stand up for longer, all the way to the beach. I kept trying and trying but still falling off.